This was a lot of fun to write. Hope you enjoy my interview with BlogExpat.com. You can also click on the logo at the bottom of my home page.
From the USA to Nicaragua
Stay tuned for a post on our wild and crazy experience of being filmed for a popular TV show in the states.
In Granada in 2005, there was a local bar nicknamed Pedophile Perch. The porch overlooked a main street, and everyone knew that this was the place where the foreign pedophiles hung out. Since then, many things have changed in Nicaragua. Pedophile Perch still exists, a little less obtrusive, and now, on a side street, but most expats know where it is located. Yet, with the arrest and deportation last month of Eric Toth, a former 3rd grade teacher in a private school in Washington D.C., my hopes are that Pedophile Perch will take a powder.
Eric Justin Toth Caught in Nicaragua
I’m proud of Nicaragua for taking a stand against foreign sex predators. Eric Toth was on the FBI’s Top Ten Most Wanted list for two years, before a tourist recognized him in Esteli, Nicaragua. What I’m not so proud of are the comments of some expats and foreign tourists defending sex trafficking and blaming the locals for their circumstances.
In 2005, I wrote a post to a Nicaragua expat forum (big mistake!) about an incident that occurred between an underage Nicaraguan boy and an older gringo man. Instead of creating an awareness of the increasing problems in Nicaragua with foreign sex predators, the discussion ( if you can even call it a discussion) led to pointless posts with statistics thrown around like fast balls. The gist of the garbage slung on the forum was blaming the locals for their cultural silence, their need to prostitute themselves for their families, and personal attacks on me for broaching the topic of foreign sexual predators.
Here are a few jewels from this sparkling conversation:
“In the last few months one takes note of how many more “little boys” have arrived from Managua to make their business…but, generally, these “little boys” are not underage..but it happens…but christ, it happens in the White House every day…gypsy toes…wanna go work the coffee fields at 3 dollars a day..try it. You wouldn’t last one year..you wouldn’t last one week. I shan’t continue…my monthly supply of Guinness came yesterday….”
“I think that you are talking bullshit”
“Get a “frigging” life.”
” I’ve been in Nicaragua for 15 years and I don’t want to hear this thing here about child abuse on the “Atlantic Coast”. This thing does not happen here.”
“My wife and I feed hungry children every day. Please keep your stupid opinions to yourself; because you do not know what you are talking about when you post.”
“***** says that “Gypsy Toes” & ***** are probably Catholic and support their pediphile priests and bishops.”
Tim Rogers, of the Nicaragua Dispatch wrote an excellent three-part series on Sex Trafficking in Nicaragua.
1. New Beginnings: chronicle of a serial rapist.
2. Sex predators find easy prey in Nicaragua
3. Nicaragua’s culture of silence
Yet, reading some of the comments posted to his articles, made me wonder why some expats and foreign tourists still continue to defend this horrendous act? Is it denial?
“Adult prostitution is legal here and the women here are definitely not being trafficked although as the article says the ones that work here come here from other cities, and I suspect the girls from here go to other cities when they want to work in the sex trade. I have seen one underaged girl trying to work here and she had no takers.”
“As far as trafficking the women arrive here on buses and play on the beaches and do as they please and go home on the buses when they are want to. They have no handlers and do not even seem professional with few exceptions. They tend to be mothers with children to feed.”
“There is a double standard with the age of consent between the Nica men and us foreigners. Its also true that the Nica guys pay them very little or nothing at all. Its a national sport here and they call it “chavaliando”. Also girls from other cities do flock to SJDS, seeking the Euro/ Yankee dollar and of-course not to be judged in their home towns. Im sure there are some crimes committed involving under aged girls and trafficking but for the most part its locals committing them.”
Denial… a psychological defense mechanism that enables us to lie to ourselves. It’s a normal way of protecting our fragile egos. Yet, when denying reality facilitates the continuation of a harmful situation (i.e. pedophilia, sexual tourism, sex trafficking), it affects our choices and prohibits us from finding solutions.
The comments posted above are good red flags for denial. They send a message that condones these horrendous acts and fools us into believing that sexual predators, prostitution, and pedophilia are accepted norms in Nicaragua. Don’t be fooled into believing that these commentators have control over the situation and we are helpless to affect a change.
We have to change! We have to confront the harsh realities and make an effort to pull our heads out of the holes in which we have been blissfully surrounded. Pay attention to the statements of deniers because they contain very negative recurring themes ( i.e.” for the most part it’s the locals committing them”, “This thing does not happen here.”, or my favorite…”wanna go work in the coffee fields at 3 dollars a day…try it.”)
Keep deniers on your speed dial, especially if you think differently than them. Confront them with reality and question their assumptions. For we must change our attitudes to protect the innocent in Nicaragua and in the world.
As a side note: I’ve been writing this piece for several months…a word at a time. I think I’ve been afraid to post it because I don’t want to sound preachy. But, I am! And, I’m angry, which always fuels my writing rants. I hope I’m not just preaching to the choir. Foreign sexual predators are becoming a huge problem in Nicaragua. Basically, I think it’s all about supply and demand.
Thanks to Third World Orphans for the information about supply and demand.
WHY IS THIS HAPPENING TO WOMEN AND CHILDREN?
SUPPLY
* Devaluation of the girl child and discriminatory practices.
* Perceived responsibility of women and children to support families.
* Lack of educational, employment and vocational opportunities.
* Fragmentation of families: death of parent/s, husband, increases homeless women and children.
* Economic conditions, especially rural poverty, fueled by economic development policies and the erosion of agricultural sectors.
* Rural to urban migration and the growth of urban industrial centers.
* Move from subsistence to cash based economy and increased consumerism.
* Lack of laws and law enforcement.
DEMAND
* Criminal networks who organize the sex industry and recruit the children.
* Law enforcement /governmental complicity in the sex trade.
* Demands of foreign sex industries creating international trade in girls and women.
* Fear of AIDS, leading customers to demand younger girls.
* Early marriage and child marriage.
* Traditional and cultural practices, including the demand for virgins, the cultural practice of men patronizing prostitutes, inter-generational patterns of girls entering prostitution.
* Employers using the debt-bond (slavery) system, forced labor and child labor.
* Demand of sex tourists, pedophiles and the migrant labor force.
* International promotion of the sex industry through information technology.
“Creativity involves breaking out of established patterns in order to look at things in a different way.”
― Terry Tempest Williams, When Women Were Birds: Fifty-four Variations on Voice
Living abroad has increased my creativity. I’ve broken out of established patterns enabling me to look at the world with eyes without borders. I have become a storyteller, seeking tales in patterns of life.
“Humans are pattern-seeking story-telling animals, and we are quite adept at telling stories about patterns, whether they exist or not.”
― Michael Shermer
If you really want to experience the culture in Nicaragua, then go to a parade. Bombas burst, drummers rat-tat-a-tat, horns blast soulfully, and vendors shout enthusiastically. Vibrant colors assault the eyes, while smells of perfumed flowers and freshly shampooed hair swirl through the crowds. Sweat drops on freshly pressed costumes, children lick melted drips of ice cream from their chins, while La Gigantona entices the crowds with fruit laden hats and remembrances of traditions of long ago. Everyone loves parades in Nicaragua…and I’m no exception.
“Family faces are magic mirrors looking at people who belong to us, we see the past, present, and future” Gail Lumet Buckley
Faces in the community of Los Ramos. Thanks to Santiago and Ever for the photos.
“Masks beneath masks until suddenly the bare bloodless skull.” ― Salman Rushdie, The Satanic Verses
“His dress told her nothing, but his face told her things which she was glad to know.”
― A.A. Milne, Once on a Time
“For a moment at least, be a smile on someone else’s face.”
― Dejan Stojanovic, The Sun Watches the Sun
“Age should not have its face lifted, but it should rather teach the world to admire wrinkles as the etchings of experience and the firm line of character.” ― Clarence Day
Keep your face to the sunshine and you cannot see a shadow. ~Helen Keller
“When I look at the smiles on all the children’s faces, I just know they’re about to jab me with something.” Dan Castellaneta
“Every child needs a champion.” ― Hillary Rodham Clinton
Life is a balancing act. You need to keep your head up and your feet on the ground, while allowing your heart to go wherever it pleases! ~Susan Gale
I spend entirely too much time with my nose to the ground in Nicaragua. There are hidden dangers lurking in the forms of scorpions, red ants, and biting centipedes. Yet, I need to remember that life is a balancing act. There are beautiful surprises awaiting when I choose to hold my head up high!
Coconuts, the life force of Nicaragua.
Hidden among the fronds are vampire bats.
Our Peras are ripe. A new batch of apple sauce and Pera pie is on the way.
The bananas have a couple of months left before they are ripe.
If we can only keep the Howler monkeys from nibbling on the bananas!
Our orchid is blooming, strung high in the nancite tree.
Marvin’s welding mask is strung high in the water tower. Our new water supply is almost finished.
My new Moroccan lamp shines colorfully in the darkness reminding me to keep my head up and my feet on the ground, for life is truly a balancing act.
My heart will always be free to roam, wherever it pleases. Thank you, my precious Nicaragua.
The Survivor Run of the Fuego y Agua Ultra-marathon held on Ometepe Island, Nicaragua on February 16, 2013 was an incredible event. We volunteered in the Survival Run and were fortunate to be able to follow the Global News crew from one obstacle to another, up and down Maderas volcano, through the cloud forest, and across the beach. I still can’t imagine running up and down the volcano, climbing and chopping down trees, carrying a chicken, then carrying 50 pounds of firewood (after being handcuffed by the police), balancing a 20 ft. bamboo pole for miles, digging a hole on the beach, and swimming to an island inhabited only by monkeys in the dark, dark night of the sweet, sweet sea. Twenty hours later, two racers arrived alive. Out of 37 racers, only two finished the race…Pac and my hero, Johnson, the winner. By the way, the other racers survived…barely!
The family that volunteers together, stays together.
The Global News video of the Survival Run is HERE. I hope you enjoy a glimpse of our island of peace and these amazing racers. It is a well-done 25 minute video. Enjoy.
Follow your bliss and the universe will open doors where there were only walls.~Joseph Campbell
Last year, Cory and Sam spent 5 months in Los Ramos developing cultural tourism programs for OutMore Adventures. They made brochures and a website for Los Ramos Tourism.
This year, the indigenous community of Los Ramos is embracing rural tourism and opening their homes to tourists so that they may experience a slice of daily life on Ometepe Island.
Since it was time for me to exchange my lending library books in Los Ramos, I decided to take their cultural cooking class. Oh, what a wonderful experience it was!!
Francisco’s mother displays all the ingredients for nacatamales.
Then, it was time to head into the banana plantation to pick the best banana leaves for wrapping the nacatamales. Along the way, Ever shows us the Guanacaste seeds…beautiful for making jewelry. The fruit surrounding the Guanacaste seed is also used as soap…just add water..and voila..clean clothes.
Rebecca carries ten perfect banana leaves back to the kitchen.
Ever shows us the outside bark of the banana plant that will be used to wrap the nacatamales. It’s called burreo…I think! We need to soak it in water, then rip it into small strips, like ribbon.
On the way to the kitchen, we stop to gather some achote…the prickly little brown balls. Inside are tiny red seeds we grind for flavoring the masa ( flour) for the nacatamales.
We also discovered that the achote seeds make a fine, natural lipstick.
Next, we peel, dice, and slice all the fresh vegetables for the nacatamales.
It looks like we are really into slicing carrots.
Francisco’s mother adds the onions to the grease. She gave us a choice of vegetable oil or homemade rendered pig lard. Of course, we chose the homemade pig lard.
Tina adds the achote flavored chicken. Most nacatamales are made with pork, but they hadn’t slaughtered a pig, so we made chicken nacatamales. I’m just glad we didn’t have to slaughter the chickens. They slaughtered them early in the morning.
She prepares rice for a topping of the nacatamales. And, the most amazing thing..she’s wearing the apron my mother made for her 2 years ago.
The chicken is ready. Rebecca stirs the masa harina, while a one-eyed dog, and 2 baby chicks peck around the dirt floor. Little Lupita, Fatima’s daughter, enjoys helping her mother and grandmother cook.
Rebecca gets to load her nacatamale first.
Then, we wrap it in a banana leaf..kind of tricky..and add the strips of banana bark to hold it all together.
Cory’s nacatamale wins the grand prize! Plus, it must weigh a ton!
Into the pot of boiling water they go.
Meanwhile, grandpa serenades Cory and Tina with a love song.
Watch out! Steaming, hot nacatamales are on the way!
Boy, are we hungry! They smell rico!
My perfect nacatamale.
After a trip to visit the school, deliver my books and new school supplies, and a side trip to see our friends the brick makers, we head up the long hill to catch the bus back to La Paloma. The end of a perfect nacatamale day!
Two links from my blog:
1. Want to make Nacatamales? Check out the recipe here.
2. Want to learn more about rural tourism? Check out my post here.
Amazing Grace, how sweet the sound,
That saved a wretch like me.
I once was lost but now am found,
Was blind, but now I see.
In our last trip to Playa Gigante, I got lost in the expanse of the beautiful desolate beach.
Yet, hidden beneath my feet and within the broad expanse, were wondrous details.
Ancient trees told tales of weathering storms and drifting among the high seas.
Their branches pointed to places they yearned to return, as they whispered harrowing tales of long ago.
Barnacles clung to a new life.
Flowers and gently sailing leaves landed silently in tide pools, floating peacefully.
Snails left trails of tears as they meandered through the sand.
The amazing grace of this wondrous miniature world saved me. I lost my place in this huge world, but found it again through the miracles beneath my feet. I was blind, but now I see.
Being last has its privileges. Being last provides you with even more drive to do better next time. Being last enables you to witness your surroundings just a wee bit more. Being last allows you to capture that memorable footage of your journey on camera and then introduce that action as the very reason for why you were last. Pretty clever wouldn’t you say?
Advancing…always moving forward…athletes from around the world participate in the Fuego y Agua Ultramarathon Survival Run on Ometepe Island, Nicaragua
Advancing with heavy logs..pushing their endurance to the max.
Advancing with 50 pound stacks of firewood..testing their limits of strength
Advancing into possibly shark infested waters…testing their fears of the unknown
Advancing with 20 ft bamboo poles up the volcano..testing balance
Advancing through cloud forests and jungles…testing agility
Advancing with humor, kissing a live chicken for 5 miles….always moving forward with a positive and determined attitude.
The Fuego y Agua Survival Run, held February 16th on Ometepe Island, as told through Charles Darwin quotes. At the bottom of the page, you can read several blogs from the Survival runners for details of their experiences.
“In the struggle for survival, the fittest win out at the expense of their rivals because they succeed in adapting themselves best to their environment.” ~ Charles Darwin
“It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.” ~ Charles Darwin
“In the long history of humankind (and animal kind, too) those who learned to collaborate and improvise most effectively have prevailed.” ~ Charles Darwin
“An American Monkey after getting drunk on Brandy would never touch it again, and thus is much wiser than most men.” ~ Charles Darwin
“The plow is one of the most ancient and most valuable of man’s inventions; but long before he existed the land was in fact regularly plowed, and still continues to be thus plowed by earthworms. It may be doubted whether there are many other animals which have played so important a part in the history of the world, as have these lowly organized creatures.” ~ Charles Darwin
“The love for all living creatures is the most noble attribute of man.” ~ Charles Darwin
“I am not apt to blindly follow the lead of other men.” ~ Charles Darwin
Johnson wins the Survival Race.
“Intelligence is based on how efficient a species became at doing the things they need to survive.”~ Charles Darwin
“Blushing is the most peculiar and most human of all expressions.”~ Charles Darwin
Pac and Johnson blush with excitement. They are the only two finishers of the Survival Run.
“…for the shield may be as important for victory, as the sword or spear.”~ Charles Darwin
The four medals collected throughout the obstacle course
Blogs from the Survival Runners:
3. A True Once in a Lifetime Adventure
5. I Did Fail: A Recap of the Craziest Race of My Life
Next post will be a recap of the 25K, 50K, 100K, and children’s 5K. Throughout the weekend, I was awed and inspired by the dedication, determination, and survival skills of all the competitors. Congratulations to everyone! It was an amazing race.
The Saga of a Fuega y Agua Ultra-Marathon volunteer as told through the lyrics of Gilligan’s Island theme song.
Just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale,
A tale of a fateful trip
That started from our tropic port
Of which you cannot skip.
Our mate was a mighty volunteer,
For the Fuega y Agua race
Three volunteers set out that day,
To tour the Survival chase, to tour the Survival chase
Nine passengers were aboard the truck,
The tiny truck was tossed,
If not for the breakfast of snickers and beer,
Our hope would all be lost, our hope would all be lost.
We tracked the runners through the race,
The obstacles were unique
Until we were told to climb the volcano,
Our tour was rather meek, our tour was rather meek.
In skirts and flip-flops unprepared,
Determined to ascend,
We hiked uphill for two exhausting hours,
Avoiding breaking wind, avoiding breaking wind.
With bamboo poles the runners climbed,
They passed us at every turn,
Barely able to descend,
We felt the stinging burn, we felt the stinging burn.
Midnight came and Johnson won,
We returned to our tropical nest,
To volunteer for the Kids 5K,
But wait until you hear the rest, wait until you hear the rest.
The weather started getting rough,
The waves were strong and mean,
All visitors became castaways,
Their plight was unforeseen, their plight was unforeseen.
Ron took our mate to meet the boat,
For her expected trip back home,
She waited like a refugee,
Five hours she feared to roam, five hours she feared to roam.
No phones, no food, no boats to go,
Not a single luxury,
Like Robinson Crusoe,
As primitive as can be, as primitive as can be.
So, this was the tale of the castaways,
They were here for a long, long time,
They learned to make the best of things,
An experience very sublime, an experience very sublime.
Booked flights and well made plans,
Flew out the windows last night,
For they hadn’t learned to expect the unexpected,
In the land of the not quite right, the land of the not quite right.
The tale of a fateful trip is done,
Our mighty mate is well,
Aboard the Che and traveling home,
Oh the stories she can tell…oh the stories she can tell.
Stay tuned for a post about the Fuega y Agua Ultra-Marathon held on Ometepe Island February 15-17, 2013.
About six miles out of Moyogalpa, one can find a tranquil emerald-green pond called Charco Verde. The lagoon is an extinct parasite crater of Concepcion Volcano. Steeped in legends and mystery, Charco Verde was a sacred spot for the Nahuatl ancestors, where the indigenous population practiced rituals such as sacrifices, reincarnations, and supplications to the gods. The algae infested lagoon was called Xistletoet by the Nahuatls, which means “Place Where the Gods Pee.” They did have a sense of humor!
Today, Charco Verde is a protected nature reserve where many varieties of local and migratory birds congregate, as well as Howler monkeys, armadillos, rabbits, and deer. Walking the well-maintained trails through the dry tropical forest that surrounds the reserve, we encountered herons, monkeys, cormorants, egrets, woodpeckers, magpies, and a variety of tropical plants and trees.
Fishermen cast their nets daily.
Gardens display duendes, sort of like mischievous little gnomes or leprechauns hidden among the foliage.
Map of the 1.7 kilometer trails through the reserve.
Majestic Concepcion volcano casts its enormous shadow into the green lagoon.
Herons and Egrets wait patiently for breakfast.
Zapolotes or buzzards circle the lagoon, always picking the ripest morsels of flesh.
This tranquil lagoon has a history of magic and witchcraft. Read the Legend of Chico Largo here.
The Howler monkeys take daily siestas in the tree tops. This little one says, “Who’s there?”
Cowboys herd their stray cattle back home. Who knows? This cow may be the cowboy’s father who made a pact with the devil. Legend has it that one can call forth the devil in Charco Verde, trade one’s soul for riches, and when the devil recalls the soul, he turns the deceased into a cow. Our local butcher says he found several cows with gold teeth.
No need to be petrified about these legends. Life in Charco Verde is abundant and full of vitality. Next time you are wandering around the lagoon, watch out for the cows. It could be a deceased relative.
